Halloween has always been synonymous with gumbo in my mind, because we usually ate it on Halloween – and many other cool nights during the fall season. This version comes from Melissa M. Martin’s Mosquito Supper Club cookbook. I was intrigued by the recipe because it doesn’t use a roux (sacrilege!), but she says this is common in parts of Louisiana, like her hometown in Terrebonne Parish. Instead of darkening a mixture of flour and oil, you slowly cook an exorbitant amount of onion (3 pounds!) for a long time. The result is a rich, brothy gumbo that tastes both lighter and earthier than the kind I grew up eating, but is equally delicious.